Garment.



' PATENTED JUNE 14, 1904.

No MODEL. y.

,5y ZM/A J 'H E NORRIS PETERS CD PHOTO-LIYNO WASHINGTON, D. C.

blaas/'eti' Patented June 14, 1904.

PATENT OFFICE.

DAVID S. STEINBERG, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

GARMENT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent o. 762,359, dated June 14, 1904. Application filed June 1y 1903. Serial No. 159,406. (No model.)

ToV @ZZ whom, it may concern."

Be it known that I, DAVID S. STEINBERG, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, county of Cook, State of Illinois, have' invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Garments; and I declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it pertains to make and use the same, reference being had tothe accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification.

Heretofore in the manufacture of the socalled readymade coats it has been customary in cutting out the canvas lining for the side of the coat to make it of one piece, with the weave of the canvas parallel and at right angles to the front edge of the coatthat is to say, with the threads composing the weave of the canvas one set running parallel with the edge of the coat and the other set running at right angles. With coats thus made when the lapel of the coat is turned down on a diagonal line it brings the weave of the canvas on a diagonal with such turned edge, the result being that with the Weave of the canvas on a diagonal the canvas will stretch, soon resulting in the edge of the lapel stretching, and thus bulging out and destroying the shape of the coat at the lapel. Again, it frequently happens that it is desirable either to stretch or gather in the front edge of the coat at the lower end and also the seam where the front portion of the. coat is joined to the back. If the weave of the canvas is at right angles to these edges, this is much more diiicult than as though the weave of the canvas was on a diagonal at these points. Y

My invention therefore has for its object the making of the canvas lining of three pieces: iirst, that portion of the lining of the lapel united to the adjacent portion on a line parallel with and adjacent to the point at which the lapel is folded over and the cutting of this portion of the canvas with respect to the weave thereof in such a way that when the fold is made the weave is at right angles to the fold, thereby effectually preventing the stretching ofthe canvas at this point;

second, the cutting of the upper portion of the canvas liningV with respect to the weave in such a way that the weave is substantially at right angles to the front edge of the coat, so that from the lapel for a portion of the way down the canvas will not stretch; third, the cutting of the lower portion of the canvas lining with respect to the weave thereof in such a way that when united to the upper portion the weave will be diagonal with the front edge and with the seam which unites the two portions of the coat together at its front.

My invention will be more fully hereinafter described and claimed. V

In the drawings, Figure l is an elevation of a portion of a garment, showing the manner of cutting and uniting the canvas lining thereof; Fig. 2, a view of the side, showing the cloth of the garment with the canvas lining of the lapel turned down into position.

In carrying out the invention, A represents the cloth of the garment.

B represents the canvas lining of the lapel, and C the seam thereof by which it is united to the adjacentportion Dof the canvas lining.

D' designates the seam Yby which the portion D of the lining is engaged to the portion EV thereof.

It will be observed by reference to Fig. 1 that the lining of the lapel is so cut with respect to the weave thereof that the seam C is at right angles to the weave of the canvas when the lapel is turned down, as shown in Fig. 2. It will also be observed that the weave of the portion E of the lining is so arranged that it is on a diagonal with the front edge F of the coat and is on a diagonal with the seam C. The result is that when the lapel is turned down, as shown in Fig. 2, the weave of the canvas being at right angles to the crease, the canvas will not stretch, and consequently the bulging out of the coat at this point is prevented. Again, it will be observed that with the weave of the portion E of the canvas on a diagonal with the line F that edge of the coat can either be gathered in or stretched, as desired, to makev it tit properly to the body of the wearer. `Again, by arranging'l the weave of the portion E on a diagonal with the seam C the lining, and consequently IOO the cloth, of the garment can be drawn in along the seam C at C. thus making the coat lit snugly into the abdomen of thc wearer.

Bythe construction above set forth I find that ready-made garments where they are manufactured in quantities will, because of the three piece lining arranged with the weaves of the respective portions as above set forth, be kept in shape much better at the lapel and also be capable of much more ready adjustment to the body of the wearer because of the capability .of the lower portion of the lining of stretching.

What I claim is- As an article of manufacture, a coat, each side of the front of which comprises the eXterior cloth and'a lining composed of three portions united at their adjacent edges, the weave of the central portion being parallel with the front edge of the coat, the weave of the lapel portion of the lining being on a diagonal to the weave of the central portion, and the weave of the lower portion being on a diagonal to the weave of the central portion and also on a diagonal with respect to the front edge of the coat.

In testimony whereof I sign this specifica tion in the presence of two witnesses.

DAVID S. STEINBERG. Witnesses:

H. S. GAiTHER, C. C. CUNNINGHAM. 

